Welcome
Want to Adopt/Need a Rescue?
Find a Turtle Vet
About the Tortoise Rescue
Tortoise Rescue Press Room
Special Events
Tortoise Rescue Videos and Photos
Turtle Rescue Advice & Care
Stuff
Turtles in Danger
Turtle Newsletter Archive
Great Turtle Links
Meet Our Turtle Volunteers
Fun Turtle Stuff
Please Donate
Contact the turtle rescue
valentineturtle.jpg
Courtesy of http://www.buzzfeed.com/turtlefeed

Need a vet? Try this link for help throughout the US.

DSCN1779.JPG

Lots and lots of questions about sulcatas and their care and housing.  Don't ever buy one - adopt.  Remember they damage everything so unless you are willing to give up your glass doors, garden/plants and lawn furniture, DO NOT GET ONE.  If you live in NY, Michigan, Wisconsin or any other state that does not have a climate like Africa where sulcatas come from, DO NOT GET ONE.   They must live outside and get sun all year or they get metabolic bone disease and die!  Lights are useless. 

The best setup is a cinderblock house with floor mats called pig blankets or Kane Heat pads from http://www.beanfarm.com/ and a radiant heat panel for overhead which you can screw into a wood roof, also available from bean farm.   Do not use lights as they are a fire hazard and do nothing to keep sulcatas warm.  Make a door for cold and wet weather and you are done - your sulcata can live outside all year assuming you are in California, Florida or other warm states.  Do not use anything on top of the mats - no hay, newspaper etc.   See photo above - this house accommodates four large tortoises.  As for other care details, please click the link. 

Click on this link for a Sulcata Care Sheet

amerind1.gif

Before you adopt, remember some turtles must eat worms - we buy 3,000 superworms at a time. You can buy them from suppliers throughout the country. Here's a video on the art of feeding worms to turtles...click below.

The art of feeding worms...

Click here for the ABCs of Feeding Your Turtles and Tortoises

amerind1.gif

Paw Talk - 10 Common Turtle Myths

Paw Talk - the Great Tortoise Rescue

amerind6.gif

Click here to learn how to protect yourself from Salmonella

If you have adopted a turtle or tortoise

Please be gentle and loving to your new hatchling or adult. They do not like disruptions - once they get used to an area, please try not to move things around. Watch for signs that your adoptee is in trouble - runny nose, swollen eyes, a change in eating or evacuation habits, shell changes - all are indications that your tortoise or turtle needs help.
A Few Things to Consider before Buying a Turtle for a Pet
  • Specialized veterinary care is not cheap. Be sure you are ready for medical expenses in addition to food and regular care.
  • Tortoises can live a long time. You may have to commit to providing care for your lifetime.
  • Think a sulcata would make a good pet, think again! See Turtles in Danger.
  • Tortoises and turtles need direct sunlight. A UV light is useless. Shell deformities will result without sunlight. Read about pyramiding.
  • Turtles and tortoises need sufficient space. Tanks can be cruel.
  • Buying a turtle under four inches is illegal.
  • All reptiles can carry salmonella. Read more about how to protect yourself here.
  • Turtles and dogs do not mix!
  • Above All: Take the time to learn about the special requirements of caring for a turtle or tortoise before making your decision.

sulcatapairrobert.JPG
lorideformedtortoise.jpg
POPPY3.JPG

Pyramiding in Tortoises

The Malphigian cells are responsible for the production of keratin and lie under the scutes, the turtle's "skin" (its pattern on the carapace). It's like human finger and toenails, but while ours generates from a root at the first joint of our digits and grows outward, the keratin on a turtle/tortoise grows concentrically and is very soft until it hardens upon exposure to air. It is hypothesized that covering it with over-the-counter treatment preparations may prevent necessary hardening. This keratin "skin" can also bleed. Keratin is generated in a ring that raises slightly once it's stopped growing, producing the annuli. Bumpiness or pyramiding can occur more readily since the keratin is added over the entire surface of the scute from below, growing as the exoskeleton underneath it grows.

Growth varies, so determining their age by the annuli doesn't work. My 1996 box turtle hatchlings "hibernated" in their terrarium in an unheated room and they came out of hibernation with those white rings that indicated to me that they'd grown while asleep. Perhaps it just wasn't cold enough for them to slow the growth process.

Information I heard about at the Herpfest states that the captive diet of hatchlings is going to be excessive and cause pyramiding, no matter what. It has come to light that a hatchling's yolk sac produces nourishment for upwards of 9 months to a YEAR in the wild. A study on desert tortoises was done (I think this'll be presented soon, and I know CTTC had a speaker, a graduate student, who did research on this and the conclusions are amazing). Since protein occurs in both plant and animal matter, the bumpiness would cover all terrestrial species who are fed by attentive keepers, me included, if the yolk is also providing nourishment.

My herbivore hatchlings are fairly bumpy--perhaps from all those greens and weeds, while my three-toed box turtle hatchlings are perfectly formed because of their primarily-night crawler diet; they nibble at veggies, but prefer the live stuff. The general perception is that hatchlings need to eat often to grow to a size that allows them to ossify (harden) and protect themselves from possible predators. But if the yolk sac reabsorbs where we can't see it and continues to provide nourishment like it seems to do for desert tortoise hatchlings, is it a regional adaptation, or--and this is more likely--is it applicable to all terrestrial/semi-aquatic animals?

I'm trying to understand hatchling development. It's such a fascinating area of study and, now that we're producing our own hatchlings from the wild-caught parents, I think it's going to be the anomalous development of our hatchlings that will educate us towards what's the right thing to do. As natural as possible isn't always... possible. We have so much to learn.

Keratin and Pyramiding
Reprinted from email with permission from Paula Elis. Morris

laspca25swimming.JPG

Protecting Yourself From Reptile Associated Salmonella
by Susan M. Tellem, RN

When Peter bought a quarter-size green turtle from a Los Angeles street vendor for his young son Danny, he had no idea he was bringing home a tiny package of life that packed a big wallop of a disease. Within days, Danny ended up in the ICU with severe vomiting, lethargy and fever. He almost died from Salmonella.

An infant in New York City, admitted to the hospital with vomiting, chills and fever also was diagnosed with Salmonella. Although there were no reptiles in the child's household, her babysitter passed along Salmonella from her pet iguana.

In Texas, an HIV positive, 45 year old pet store employee who routinely handled reptiles, was treated for severe Salmonella sepsis (a serious illness that results when Salmonella enters the blood stream).

All over America, men and women, adults and kids are unknowingly trading, buying and giving "the gift" of Salmonella, a infection that can kill. Reptiles, like iguanas and water turtles are purchased at pet stores, as well as from the black market, private reptile breeders, and swap meets. Many reptile sellers do not post warnings about the dangers of Salmonella even though state and federal laws require it.

What is Salmonella?

According to the New York Department of Health, Salmonella is "a bacterial infection that generally infects the intestinal tract and occasionally the blood stream. Symptoms include mild to severe diarrhea, fever and occasionally vomiting. Symptoms generally appear one to three days after exposure. It is spread by eating or drinking contaminated food or by contact with infected people, animals and reptiles."

Reptiles are more popular than ever. According to the Pet Industry Joint Advisory Council, there are between seven and eight million pet reptiles owned in about three percent of America's households. Reptile ownership is on the increase. U.S. Fish and Wildlife reports while about 27,000 iguanas were imported in 1986, the figure increased to almost 800,000 in 1993.

Upwards of 80 percent of the imported iguanas carry Salmonella, according to Richard Evans, DVM, Chief of Veterinary Services, Veterinary Public Health, Orange County (Calif.) Health Agency. "If you bought an iguana, you bought the wrong pet," he says emphatically. "There is no known treatment for Salmonella in the iguana (or turtle). Even if you treat the Salmonella in your pet, it returns."

While most healthy adult owners show no symptoms of Salmonella even if they are infected, Dr. Evans says children under five, pregnant women and the elderly as well as those whose immune systems are compromised such as those with AIDS, kidney transplants or people undergoing treatment for cancer are at risk of serious illness or even death from Salmonella infection.

Dr. Evans warns teachers that reptiles (and other animals like chicks that also carry Salmonella) are not appropriate for classrooms. "Show them pictures," he says.

A teacher is a sitting duck for a lawsuit should any of the children in the classroom get infected. "Teachers know the risks, so if a parent were to sue for a million dollars (much more if the child dies), the parent will win." It is not worth the risk he says.

Turtle Invasion

During the 1970s, millions of tiny baby turtles were sold throughout the United States as pets. By the mid-70s, a quarter of a million children and infants were diagnosed as having turtle-associated Salmonella. In 1975, the Food & Drug Administration, in an effort to stop the problem, prohibited the sale of any turtles under four inches in length. This law still stands but is poorly enforced.

According to American Tortoise Rescue (ATR), Los Angeles, and the New York Turtle and Tortoise Society, throughout the country, tiny turtles called red-eared sliders are being sold by vendors on street corners, in shopping malls, in front of museums and even at pet stores. Typically ranging in price from $2 to $10, turtles imported from Mexico and harvested from Louisiana are often infected with Salmonella.

"Buyers tell us that none of the black market vendors ever issued a health warning with the sale of the turtles," says Marshall Thompson, co-founder of ATR.

Unsupervised children are frequently at risk with these small turtles because they can easily put them in their mouths. "We've been in pet stores where illegal turtles were for sale," says Thompson. "As we watched, children under five fished out the turtles from the tank where they were for sale and never washed their hands afterward"

Allen Salzberg, of the New York Turtle & Tortoise Society, says that the sale of tiny turtles will explode now that the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle craze is heating up. "Parents want to purchase a turtle because of their childÂ’s fascination with the Ninja Turtles. This is a recipe for an ecological disaster." Why? Because of the financial commitment and effort to care for the turtle over a 25 year lifespan -- and the risk of Salmonella to the child, parents release the turtle "into the wild" where it is not among it's native species. Here it can also infect the existing turtle population with Salmonella.

Protect Yourself

According to national reptile specialist, Walter Rosskopf, DVM, who runs the Avian & Exotic Animal Hospital in Hawthorne, Calif. "Reptiles can be kept by responsible people who take strict precautions." He is opposed to children owning reptiles because of the health hazards.

Says Dr. Rosskopf, "Salmonella, in my experience, is seen most commonly in water turtles, boa constrictors and iguanas. The infected reptile frequently shows no symptoms, and culturing stools to identify Salmonella is a hit and miss proposition."

Dr. Rosskopf gives good advice for those who currently have reptiles as pets or plan to purchase one.

  • Wash your hands with hot, soapy water (preferably antibacterial soap) after handling the pet, its cage or cage accessories.
  • Wear gloves and face protection when cleaning a cage or changing the water in a tank, pool or pond.
  • Always supervise and minimize a child's handling of a reptile.
  • House reptiles away from the kitchen, dining room and food preparation areas.
  • Keep other pets away from reptiles, including their cages and water bowls.
  • Make regular reptile veterinary visits and have laboratory screening tests done.
  • Do not us the bathroom sink or shower as a reptile soaking area.
  • Do not eat, drink or smoke while handling the reptile or cleaning its environment.
  • If your reptile injures you, clean the wound thoroughly and consult a physician. Reptile injuries can become easily infected.
  • Although it might be tempting, Dr. Rosskopf also warns, "Do not kiss your reptile."
     

If you want more info on salmonella click here.

Egg Care
Courtesy of Felice Rood, Sacramento Turtle and Tortoise

Here's how I incubate my box turtle eggs (water turtles too).

You need a clay flower pot, some green moss, a plastic bag. Take a handful of the moss, wet it and squeeze it out good. Place it in the pot. Put the eggs on top of the moss. Then take about a half a handful of moss, wet, squeeze, place on top of the eggs and then put the whole thing into a plastic bag and leave it on your kitchen counter or wherever it stays warm. An incubator is not necessary. It works like a charm. Just check every couple of weeks to make sure the moss has not dried out. They hatch in about 70 to 77 days this way.

My friend just wets two paper towels, puts the eggs in there, and then puts the whole thing in a plastic bag. So far she has 64 eggs incubating! She has a 100% hatching record. The eggs really need to be moist or else they do shrivel up or if too wet, get moldy!

The light should be turned off at night. Good Luck!

Powered by Register.com